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Frequently asked questions about flooring

Is it possible to replace a separate board in the floor if necessary?

Partial repair of a floor, such as the replacement of a separate plank in a wooden floor are possible, but it is necessary to remember some difficulties that are associated with this kind of repair. For example, modern floors often have ribs and grooves, which significantly complicates the task. If you want to replace one or more slats, you have to cut these strips of parquet without damaging the rest of the floor. For this purpose, parquet professionals have specific tools for doing so with care.

Another problem arises when replacing the board and putting it back in place, since it is necessary to find another identical size of the same kind of wood, after having already treated it on both sides. In addition, if the new blade is not identical to the old one, it can change color with time and the repair area becomes visible. On the other hand, if you have a varnished wood floor and you eventually have defects, it may be better to consider only replacing the old polish on the floor. In this case, the result can be much better, even by replacing individual inserts and covering the entire floor with a high quality varnish.

How to repair a bad floor base and what is the fastest way?

Some of the modern flooring mixes are fast drying, which allows us to prepare the surface for laying the floor parquet in just two days. The one we prefer is: "Chronochap" by Bostik. However, everything depends on the situation. In particular, if a serious repair of the foundations is necessary, the installation of a "black" floor on adjustable slats can constitute an alternative solution. In this case, you will save time and get extra sound insulation of the room. The thickness of this base is 30 mm, so it is more suitable for rooms with high ceilings.

I want to lay new wooden floors, how to choose between different types of boards, products and varnishes?

When choosing between different flooring, solid wood, planks of wood, several factors can be important. Special attention must be paid to the most optimal choice according to your needs and desires.

These factors include:

  • The cost of the coating itself and the cost of the installation.
    Compared to parquet and solid wood panels, the parquet panel is a bit cheaper and its installation is much cheaper. The cost of parquet, solid wood and their installation, all things being equal, is very close.
  • The aesthetic appeal.
    The formation of various decorative elements is possible when choosing the floor. Different models of pose and various elements of artistic decoration (borders, artistic modules) are possible. The aesthetic possibilities of solid wood are limited by the standard bridge installation, which can only be supplemented by a special surface treatment of the panels. When using the floor, you can add visual interest by combining panels of different colors.
  • Lifetime.
    For parquet and solid wood, the service life varies from 70 to 100 years or more, taking into account the varnish change at intervals of 5 to 7 years. For prefinished parquet varnish, this period is between 12 and 20 years, depending on the thickness of the wood layer. With an oil-based protective coating, the service life of the three types of wood flooring increases. On an annual basis, parquet and solid wood flooring are the most economical.

The choice is yours.

Is it possible to lay parquet on electric or water heating?

Yes, it is possible, but it requires the respect of a special technology and the use of several auxiliary materials which can be more expensive. In addition, the laying of wood coatings can be carried out on water-heated bases embedded in a sufficiently thick layer of screed to ensure a uniform distribution of heat in the screed and on the surface. With electric heating, this fails and creates an uneven temperature distribution. The heated wood floors have a slightly higher thermal inertia and require a progressive increase / decrease of the heating temperature when entering / leaving the heating mode. For such soils, it is not desirable to use wood species that are less resistant to changes in the temperature and humidity of the room. These include beech, kempas, maple and cherry. These wood species are more prone to deformation and rapid recovery of moisture. This requires tighter control of installation and use conditions for more experienced pavers, limits the number of adhesives and protective coatings allowed, increases the risk of deformation and decreases the quality of floor coverings. In the case of laying wooden floors with heated floors in different rooms, do not mechanically connect them, and the temperature at the floor surface should not exceed 27ºC.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of a natural parquet and of a laminated floor?

Laminated floor

The Advantages:

  • Polyvalence.
  • Whether you want a wooden floor in the bathroom, or a high traffic room, laminate flooring is the solution to your problems.
  • Ease and simplicity of care.
  • Regular and simple cleaning is all that is necessary for these soils to remain in good working order.
  • Ease of installation and repair.

Disadvantages: laminated floors are always artificial soils that can not completely replace the sensations and appearance of natural parquet.

Natural parquet

  • If a person likes natural and ecological materials, the choice of natural parquet provides an absolute comfort of life and creates a warm and comfortable atmosphere.
  • The price of wooden floors is a bit higher.
  • If properly maintained, it will last longer.
  • Installation, repair and maintenance work requires additional time and money.

What does the quality of the parquet depend on?

The quality of the parquet can be determined mainly by visual inspection. Care must be taken with machine defects, such as chips, scratches, damaged fibers. You should also pay attention to the adjustment of the parquet boards during assembly. Simply attach two strips of samples and pay attention to the fact that the connection has no gap or vice versa is not too tight during installation. When their connection requires considerable effort, this can lead to damage during installation. In addition, with the aid of a simple rule, you can check the absence of length and width deviations of the individual slats of a parquet package in the linear parameters of the covering elements, as well as the absence of different thickness. This will also avoid the purchase of a cover with manufacturing defects.

What base is necessary for the laying of parquet?

Parquet should be installed after most other repairs. For example: electrical work, installation of doors and windows, finishing work. This is necessary to prevent damage to the floor, with paint or water. The base under the floor must be perfectly smooth, most often it is a screed. Dry the screed on average for at least 4 weeks without using a building dryer (not counting cases with quick-drying blends). Before laying the floor, it is checked using a special device. The deviation should not be more than 2%. The resistance of the screed is controlled by means of a special device or in a simpler way - by applying secant lines with a metal rod. The intersection of the lines must not be chipped or cracked. It is also important to check the flatness of the screed using a level. The delta must not exceed 2 millimeters by 2 linear meters. There is a method of laying parquet directly on the screed. A special primer is applied, after which the wood coating is applied on glue. Also, the laying of parquet can be performed on the base in the form of plywood. Small plywood sheets are glued to the screed, which should not be shifted. After installation, the plywood must be polished to eliminate irregularities in the joints.

How to make a wooden staircase stop creak?

  • Sometimes the stairs creak for seasonal reasons. This is due to the change of temperature and humidity in the room due to the swelling of the wood and there may be grooves between the elements of the steps. In such cases, for the wood not to absorb excessive moisture, it must be treated with special solutions that you can buy in specialized stores. In addition, in order to avoid seasonal creaking, it is possible during the dry season to treat all structural elements with a colorless silicone sealant or paraffin (after this procedure, it is advisable not to walk the steps for 24 to 48 hours).
  • If the squeak is not seasonal, and is probably a consequence of wear and tear, then it is necessary to identify problem areas to determine the cause of squeaking. First, walk up and down and mark the steps that emit sounds. Then you have to check if the platforms are not loose, as well as the connections of the support beams. Special attention should be made to fixings. If you have a problem loosening the fasteners, you can install rubber seals between the bolts and the wood or lubricate the metal parts with special compounds.
  • As a general rule, there are problems with the joints of the steps, since it is on them that the greatest pressure is exerted during the movement and that, consequently, they are subjected to a greater deformation. If the steps have been fastened with nails, they may loosen during operation and small gaps may appear. At the same time, it is not recommended to re-glue the loose fittings, as they will no longer be of high quality, as well as to tighten the screws and bolts in or near the existing holes. That is, it is necessary to install new fasteners and seal the old holes.
  • If poorly-seasoned wood was used when installing the ladder, the cause of squeaking may be corners that contract or expand. If it is impossible to change their shape to fit perfectly with their original position and fulfill their original function, a more effective measure will be complete corner replacement.
  • If there is an empty space, then, before drawing parts to each other, additional corners or strips must be created. The seams must be treated with a special wood glue. When repairing the interior of the steps, the parts are aligned so that the new inserts and wedges on the front face are invisible. If there is no possibility of repairing the interior, then the steps are either raised with a lever or hammers, and the projecting parts are carefully cut and sanded. It is recommended to install additional reinforcement ribs - special bars on the steps to be completely loosened. Please note that it is best to do all the degree setting work under its load, preferably about 80 kg. Whatever the type of wood, the structure, the number of steps and the shape of the railing during a long-term operation, almost all wooden stairs begin to crack. However, you can get rid of it easily and for a long time. Also, remember that at the time of the repair, you can always change the general appearance of an old staircase.